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A Personal Guide to Japan

Big in Japan

A handpicked companion to Tokyo's quieter corners, beloved tables and late-night rituals — now grown to include Kyoto's temples, Osaka's tables, and Okinawa's sea-light. Written for the friends and family who'd rather live a neighbourhood than tick a checklist.

After   Big in Japan,   Alphaville, 1984

Tokyo
Kyoto
Osaka
Okinawa
二 · Chapter Two

Where to Stay

The room shapes the trip. From a hidden ryokan in the backstreets to a cliff-top onsen retreat — a few places worth planning a journey around.

Tokyo's Iconic Hotels

The world's flags planted in Tokyo — and the city's own grand houses

名宿

Tokyo has, by most counts, the largest concentration of five-star hotels of any city on earth. The international chains all planted flags here decades ago — usually on the highest floors of the city's most prestigious towers — and the city's own great hotels, several dating from before the second world war, have evolved into something just as remarkable. Many travellers come to Tokyo without realising that the hotel bars and restaurants are themselves part of the city's culture. A drink at the right hotel is a small Tokyo ritual.

🌍The International Luxury
  • Park Hyatt Tokyo map
    Shinjuku — the 52-storey tower in West Shinjuku, made famous by Lost in Translation. The film's interiors are real: same lobby, same library, same New York Bar. Refined, calm, deeply established. Currently undergoing renovation through 2025.
  • The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo map
    Roppongi — occupies the top nine floors (45F–53F) of Tokyo Midtown, the highest hotel in central Tokyo. Vast Mt Fuji views from west-facing rooms. Towers (51F) is arguably the city's most polished destination restaurant.
  • Mandarin Oriental Tokyo map
    Nihonbashi — the lobby starts on the 38th floor, in a building styled after a forest. Famous for one of the world's most decorated hotel restaurants (K'shiki) and a spa with floor-to-ceiling Skyline views.
  • Aman Tokyo map
    Otemachi — the most extraordinary lobby in Tokyo: a 30-metre-high atrium built around a stone garden, with washi-paper walls and a fireplace at its centre. Aman's Tokyo flagship occupies the top six floors of Otemachi Tower.
  • The Peninsula Tokyo map
    Marunouchi — directly facing the Imperial Palace gardens. Old-school grand service, the Hong Kong-Peninsula tradition transplanted. Peter (top floor) and The Lobby are both Tokyo institutions.
  • Four Seasons Otemachi map
    Otemachi — the newer (2020) Four Seasons, with vast windows opening to the Imperial Palace from above. Less famous than the sister Marunouchi property but considerably more refined.
  • Bulgari Hotel Tokyo map
    Yaesu — the newest of the city's flagship hotels (opened 2023), occupying the top floors of the Tokyo Midtown Yaesu tower. Italian luxury, jewellery-house aesthetic, breathtaking Tokyo Station and Imperial Palace views.
  • Janu Tokyo map
    Azabudai Hills — Aman's bolder, younger sister brand, in the city's newest mega-complex. Eight restaurants, an enormous wellness floor. The 2024 opening that Tokyo's hotel world is still talking about.
  • Conrad Tokyo map
    Shiodome — the most dramatic bay views of any Tokyo hotel, looking across Hama-rikyū Garden, Tokyo Bay, and (on clear days) Mt Fuji. Cerise (28F) is the destination French restaurant.
  • Andaz Tokyo map
    Toranomon — design-led Hyatt boutique brand, atop Toranomon Hills. The Rooftop Bar (52F) is one of Tokyo's most fashionable evening destinations.
  • EDITION Tokyo, Toranomon map
    Toranomon — Ian Schrager's contemporary luxury hotel, with a stunning Tokyo Tower-facing rooftop. Younger, more design-forward atmosphere than the older grand hotels.
  • InterContinental Tokyo Bay map
    Hamamatsuchō — bay-side, with sweeping Rainbow Bridge and Odaiba views. The classic IHG presence in Tokyo — comfortable, central, and well-priced compared to its peers.
  • Hilton Tokyo Odaiba map
    Odaiba — directly on Tokyo Bay, with arguably the city's best view of the Rainbow Bridge lit up at night. Curved balconies on most rooms, a 1.5km waterfront promenade just outside. Family-friendly, with the Odaiba beach and Gundam statue a short walk away. The Tokyo Bay sunset stay.
🏯Distinctly Japanese — Tokyo's Own Grand Hotels
  • Hotel New Otani Tokyo map
    Kioichō — the hotel with the famous garden. A 10-acre Japanese garden, parts of it 400 years old (originally a samurai estate from the Edo period), is preserved in the heart of central Tokyo — ponds, stone bridges, waterfalls, surrounded on all sides by glass towers. Walk into the lobby and the city vanishes. The strawberry shortcake at SATSUKI (the lobby café) is itself famous. Right beside the Imperial Palace moat.
  • The Imperial Hotel Tokyo map
    Hibiya — Tokyo's most historically resonant hotel, open since 1890. The Frank Lloyd Wright-designed second building (1923) famously survived the Great Kantō earthquake on the day it opened. Wright's original lobby was demolished in 1968 but elements survive in the Old Imperial Bar. Direct view of the Imperial Palace.
  • Hotel Okura Tokyo map
    Toranomon — the legendary mid-century-modern Japanese hotel (opened 1962, rebuilt 2019). The new lobby preserves the iconic original — the hexagonal lanterns, the plum-blossom screens, the soft modernist serenity that made Okura beloved of design pilgrims. Near the US Embassy.
  • Palace Hotel Tokyo map
    Marunouchi — literally next to the Imperial Palace moat, with rooms whose balconies overlook the palace grounds (a privilege almost no other hotel in Tokyo offers). Quiet, refined, and arguably the most Japanese-feeling of the modern luxury hotels.
  • Hoshino Resorts — The Brand Worth Knowing 星野リゾート
    Japan's most ambitious modern hospitality group, with four distinct sub-brands worth recognising. Hoshinoya (luxury — Hoshinoya Tokyo, Hoshinoya Kyoto, Hoshinoya Karuizawa); KAI (modern onsen ryokan across Japan); OMO (urban-explorer hotels designed for active travel — OMO5 Tokyo Otsuka, OMO3 Asakusa); BEB (casual lifestyle, for the younger generation). All four bring distinct identities while sharing the group's exacting Japanese-design standards.
  • TRUNK Family map
    Japan's homegrown design-hotel brand. TRUNK(HOTEL) Shibuya (the Cat Street original — already mentioned) and the newer TRUNK(HOTEL) YOYOGI PARK (2023) — 25 rooms facing Yoyogi Park, exposed concrete and Nordic-Japanese minimalism, a rooftop infinity pool with the park as backdrop. Lifestyle-led, beautifully done.
  • Hotel Niwa Tokyo map
    Suidobashi — a mid-priced Japanese boutique with a tiny rock garden in the lobby, traditional touches in every room, and a quiet personality that punches well above its price. The local-Tokyo alternative to the international chains.
🍸Famous Hotel Bars & Restaurants — A Tokyo Ritual

You don't need to stay to drink and dine here. Some of Tokyo's most memorable evenings are spent in hotel lobbies and on hotel rooftops you can walk into.

  • New York Bar & Grill (Park Hyatt, 52F) map
    The bar from Lost in Translation. Live jazz, glass walls overlooking the Shinjuku skyline, the most photographed cocktail in Tokyo. Cover charge after 8pm but worth it. Smart casual required.
  • Old Imperial Bar (Imperial Hotel) map
    A small, dim, deeply atmospheric bar incorporating original 1923 Frank Lloyd Wright architectural elements that survived the Imperial Hotel's demolition. Sit at the counter and you're in a small surviving piece of Wright's masterpiece. Their signature Mount Fuji cocktail (created here in 1924) is a Tokyo classic.
  • The Lounge by Aman map
    In the 30-metre Aman lobby — high tea in the afternoon, cocktails by night, surrounded by stone gardens and washi paper. One of Tokyo's most quietly luxurious afternoons.
  • SATSUKI Lobby Lounge (New Otani) map
    Famous for two things: their "Super Strawberry Shortcake" (a Tokyo legend), and views directly into the 400-year-old Japanese garden. Best with afternoon light.
  • Towers (Ritz-Carlton, 51F) map
    Tokyo's most polished destination restaurant — modern European with a wine cellar of legendary depth. Reserve weeks ahead for window tables. Also a quiet, more refined alternative to the New York Bar for sunset cocktails.
  • Rooftop Bar (Andaz Tokyo, 52F) map
    Open-air terrace, Tokyo Tower glowing red in the foreground, the city stretching below. Younger, more design-forward crowd than the older grand hotel bars.
  • Peter (Peninsula, 24F) map
    A theatrical room with golden chairs and a bar that feels like a stage set — superb cocktails, and the lights of Hibiya and the Imperial Palace below.
  • K'shiki (Mandarin Oriental) map
    Two-Michelin-star Italian, 38th floor — open kitchen, dramatic city views. Worth the splurge for a special occasion.
How to think about the choice

"For atmosphere and tradition: Imperial Hotel or Hotel New Otani. For pure modern luxury: Aman, Bulgari, or Janu. For the best views: Conrad (bay), Ritz-Carlton (Mt Fuji), Andaz (Tokyo Tower). For the romantic film fantasy: Park Hyatt. For staying right by the Imperial Palace: Palace Hotel, Peninsula, or Four Seasons Otemachi."

・・・

Boutique & Distinctive Stays

Beyond the grand hotels — the small, the local, the unmistakably Tokyo

星

Hoshinoya Tokyo map

Otemachi — a tower-ryokan

A luxury ryokan stacked vertically in the financial district: tatami floors, a top-floor onsen open to the sky, kaiseki dining. You leave your shoes at the door and the city disappears.

雅

Hotel Gajoen Tokyo map

Meguro — "the museum hotel"

Possibly the most beautiful interiors in Tokyo — hand-painted ceilings, lacquered halls, a hidden garden. Worth visiting even just to dine, but a stay is unforgettable.

行

Andon Ryokan map

Asakusa — design meets tradition

A small, affordable boutique ryokan with a modern eye. Paper-lantern glow, a communal bath, and warm hosts. The intimate, real-Tokyo option.

無

Muji Hotel Ginza map

Ginza — minimalism, perfected

Exactly what you'd hope: calm, uncluttered rooms above the flagship Muji store, in the heart of Ginza. Quietly excellent value for the location.

幹

Trunk Hotel Shibuya map

Shibuya — the social stay

Design-forward, sustainability-minded, with one of the best lobby bars in the city. Younger, livelier energy — right for a Shibuya-centred trip.

澤

Ryokan Sawanoya map

Yanaka — old-Tokyo authenticity

A family-run ryokan in the still-traditional Yanaka district, near Ueno. Affordable, deeply local, with communal cedar baths and the warmest welcome in Tokyo. The way travellers stayed in this city for generations.

開

KAIKA Tokyo by The Share Hotels map

Kuramae — book-and-art hotel

A converted warehouse with thousands of art books in the lobby, a gallery space, and rooms designed by local studios — in the quietly creative Kuramae neighbourhood, near Asakusa. Where younger travellers stay now.

Well Placed — Good Value 手頃
  • The Gate Hotel Ryōgoku by HULIC mapopened in 2020 on the Sumida River, with a boat pier out front: a guest-only 9th-floor terrace and lounge face the Skytree, and the river restaurant serves a breakfast with chanko nabe, the sumo stew. Three minutes from JR Ryōgoku West Exit, with the Kokugikan and the Hokusai Museum on foot. Rooms from 16 m²; the doors are locked 22:30–6:00, so call if arriving late. Check-in 14:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥10,000–15,000 per person, two sharing
  • Asakusa Kaede 浅草楓 mapnine suites, opened in 2021 on a side street off Nakamise, three minutes from Asakusa Station: each room is dressed in one Japanese craft and has a raised tatami platform with futons beside the beds, so four fit easily. The top-floor Edo Suite sleeps six, with two bathrooms and a balcony facing the Skytree. Check-in 15:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥10,000–15,000 per person, two sharing
  • Ochanomizu Hotel Shoryukan お茶の水ホテル昇龍館 mapa family inn since the early Shōwa years, rebuilt in 2009, three minutes from Shin-Ochanomizu and Ogawamachi stations: separate men’s and women’s baths, a free Japanese breakfast, tatami rooms from 22 m² (two with a private hinoki bath on the balcony), and Akihabara and Jimbōchō’s bookshops on foot. Tattoos are not allowed in the baths. Check-in 15:00, check-out 10:00. About ¥8,000–12,000 per person, two sharing
  • Daiwa Roynet Hotel Nishi-Shinjuku PREMIER mapfive minutes from Exit 2 of Nishi-Shinjuku (Marunouchi Line), with the airport limousine stopping at Shinjuku’s west exit (about 40 minutes from Haneda): Japanese-modern rooms over 21 m², most with the bath and toilet separate, and a breakfast buffet with pancakes made to order and an ochazuke bar. Check-in 14:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥12,000–18,000 per person, two sharing
  • WPÜ Shinjuku mapa creative-hub hotel opened in 2023 on Ōme-kaidō, a minute from Exit D5 of Shinjuku-nishiguchi (Ōedo Line) and five from JR Shinjuku’s west exit: a café, a craft-beer diner with sixteen taps and DJs, a gallery and a 24-hour lounge with a shared kitchen. Rooms are small, from 11 m², and there is no breakfast, only free bread and coffee in the morning. Check-in 15:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥8,000–13,000 per person, two sharing
Well Placed — Mid-Range 中級
  • NOHGA HOTEL AKIHABARA TOKYO mapmusic-themed, opened in 2020: a speaker in every room, DJs in the lounge Thursday to Sunday and a pizzeria downstairs. Four minutes from Suehirochō (Ginza Line), six from JR Akihabara. Rooms from 18 m²; only the larger rooms have a bathtub. Check-in 15:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥15,000–20,000 per person, two sharing
  • NOHGA HOTEL UENO TOKYO mapfurnished by local craftspeople, opened in 2018, with a gallery lobby and craft workshops. Three minutes from Exit 3 of Ueno Station: Ueno Park’s museums and Ameyoko on foot, and the Keisei Skyliner to Narita seven minutes away. Rooms from 18 m². Check-in 15:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥15,000–25,000 per person, two sharing
  • Hotel Gracery Asakusa mapthree minutes from Asakusa Station and a short walk to Kaminarimon: neat, quiet rooms of 18–23.5 m², plus family rooms, and a breakfast buffet with a live kitchen. Check-in 14:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥15,000–25,000 per person, two sharing
  • Mitsui Garden Hotel Nihonbashi Premier mapopened in 2018 on floors 10–15 above Nihonbashi, connected underground to Mitsukoshimae Station (Ginza and Hanzōmon lines), with Tokyo Station a short walk away: a hinoki public bath on the 9th floor and some rooms facing the Skytree. Check-in 15:00, check-out 12:00. About ¥20,000–30,000 per person, two sharing
  • Mitsui Garden Hotel Ginza Tsukiji mapopened in 2024, three minutes from Higashi-Ginza, between the Ginza shops and Tsukiji outer market: every room has a washer-dryer, a microwave and a full fridge, which makes it good for long stays, and there is a cave-themed public bath in the basement. Check-in 15:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥20,000–30,000 per person, two sharing
  • SHIBUYA STREAM HOTEL mapTokyu’s flagship above Shibuya Stream, opened in 2018 (formerly Shibuya Stream Excel Hotel Tokyu) and directly connected to Shibuya Station by Exit C2 and the JR New South Exit: rooms on floors 9–13, each floor with a shared room lending clothes-care kit, activity gear and cooking tools, and corner twins of 43–46.5 m² that sleep four. Check-in 14:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥25,000–35,000 per person, two sharing
  • MIMARU TOKYO SHINJUKU WEST mapan apartment hotel opened in 2020: every unit is 40–60 m² with a full kitchen and sleeps four to six, some with tatami, futons or bunk beds, plus coin laundry — built for families. Eight minutes from Tochōmae (Ōedo Line), ten from JR Shinjuku’s south exit; the airport limousine from Haneda takes about an hour. Check-in 15:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥15,000–25,000 per person, four sharing
  • JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Shinjuku mapthree minutes from JR Shinjuku’s south exit and the Busta highway-bus terminal: rooms of 18–38 m², two of them with a view bath over Nishi-Shinjuku, a breakfast of Kyūshū dishes alongside a buffet, and a restaurant directed by the kabuki actor Ichikawa Ennosuke. Check-in 14:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥18,000–25,000 per person, two sharing
Well Placed — A Step Up 上質
  • Kaminarimon Ryokan 雷門旅館 mapa family ryokan beside Kaminarimon since 1947, rebuilt in 2019 as a seven-storey ryokan: thirteen rooms, mostly tatami, some with a tiny courtyard garden, and the largest with a 65 m² terrace facing Sensō-ji and the Skytree. Two minutes from Asakusa Station. Breakfast is reserved two days ahead and is not served on Monday or Tuesday; no children under 10. Check-in 15:00, check-out 11:00. About ¥20,000–40,000 per person, two sharing
  • Hotel The Celestine Ginza mapa quiet “second home” at the Shimbashi end of Ginza, opened in 2017 with 104 rooms: rooms from 23.5 m², ceilings about three metres high at the window and a bathtub in every room. Three minutes from JR Shimbashi. Check-in 15:00, check-out 12:00. About ¥30,000–45,000 per person, two sharing
Beyond Tokyo — Ryokan Worth the Journey 旅館

If you have a few extra days, these traditional inns are destinations in themselves.

  • Hiiragiya Ryokan mapKyoto — a centuries-old inn that has hosted emperors and writers
  • Gora Kadan mapHakone — a former imperial retreat with private onsen, under Mount Fuji's shadow
  • Zaborin Ryokan mapHokkaido — modern minimalist luxury in the Niseko forest, each room with its own bath
  • Tsurunoyu Onsen (Nyūtō Onsen) mapAkita — Nyūtō Onsen's oldest inn, a thatched lodge once used by the domain lord's guards, with four springs and the famous milky mixed outdoor bath. From about ¥10,000 per person with two meals in the Honjin (phone booking only, and it sells out); day bathing ¥700, 10:00–15:00. Bus from Tazawako station plus the inn's pick-up
  • Notoya Ryokan (Ginzan Onsen) mapYamagata — the three-storey wooden Taishō-era inn at the heart of Ginzan Onsen, lit up over the river on snowy nights, with a private cave bath on the original spring. From about ¥25,000 per person with two meals; it sells out early, and overseas guests book on the official website only. Bus or the inn's shuttle from Ōishida station
  • KAI Okuhida (Hirayu Onsen) mapGifu — Hoshino Resorts' 2024 inn at Hirayu Onsen: a 'snow corridor' outdoor bath, a hot-spring stream through the courtyard, and 28 of its 49 rooms with their own terrace bath; Hida beef grilled on a magnolia leaf at dinner. From about ¥30,000 per person with two meals; three minutes' walk from Hirayu bus terminal, and booking is through the Japanese site
  • Awanoyu Ryokan (Shirahone Onsen) mapNagano — Shirahone Onsen's century-old inn with a large milky outdoor mixed bath (bathing towels allowed, and women step in straight from their own changing room), plus women-only and indoor baths. From about ¥20,000 per person with two meals; no children of primary-school age or younger. Bus via Shin-Shimashima, or an hour's drive from Matsumoto
  • Sukayu Onsen Ryokan (Hakkōda) mapAomori — the Hakkōda mountain inn with the Sennin-buro, a vast mixed bath built of hiba wood with four springs under one roof (women-only hour 8:00–9:00). Bathhouse-wing rooms from about ¥15,000 per person with two meals; day bathing about ¥600. In winter the bus from Aomori ends here — the road beyond is closed
  • Miyamaso Takamiya (Zaō Onsen) mapYamagata — the oldest inn in Zaō Onsen (1716), nine baths fed straight from its own strongly acidic sulphur spring; come in winter for the snow monsters on the ski slopes above. From about ¥23,000 per person with two meals; about 50 minutes by bus from Yamagata station
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